Despite the technical differences between some of our soundproof walls, floors and ceilings, many of the installation processes are the same for all soundproofing jobs.
Stud Work
Make sure your stud work is properly secured to the floor and ceiling and also into any side walls if present. Lay your Stud Isolators under the ‘sole plate’ of the studwork to minimise vibration transfer into the floor.
Battens
When fixing resilient bars to a solid brick or block wall, you must line the wall with battens first. We recommend you use minimum 50mm x 50mm timber (read about Cavities below for more explanation). These can be fitted by screwing straight through them into a wall plug or by using standard angle braces.
Cavities
Cavities should be filled with acoustic insulation (see below) to help combat resonance. The total depth of cavity should be at least 50mm or low frequency performance will be severely impaired. In some cases 25-30mm is the maximum practical depth but this should definitely be avoided if your noise contains low frequencies.
Insulation
We recommend Rockwool RWA45 or similar for this purpose. Don’t worry about insulation from ‘bridging’ 2 independent structures – RWA45 is soft so it won’t transmit vibration.
Plasterboard
Leave a 6-10mm expansion gap around the perimeter of your wall and ceiling. This reduces the transfer of vibration to other elements of the building and allows the plasterboard to expand and contract with temperature fluctuations. Fill the gap with acoustic sealant.
Acoustic Sealant
Seal every gap and join as you go to ensure there are no weaknesses in your soundproofing. Seal the perimeter and all the joins on your first layer of plasterboard before adding the second with your QuietGlue Pro. Remember that even a small unsealed gap can undermine all your soundproofing efforts.
